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1 Cashmere Shawls
French woollen manufacturers make a fabric on jacquard looms in many coloured effects from fine worsted and woollen yarns that they term cashmere shawls. At the best they are only imitations. ———————— The natives of Kashmir and Tibet have made these shawls for centuries, and they are, perhaps, the finest textiles known. They are made on hand looms from hand spun yarns of Pashmina wool. Either plain or twill weave, one or more colours, in numerous gorgeous designs and often being embroidered. A doubled warp yarn and single weft is usual, the weft being wound on small sticks to use as shuttles. There are numerous varieties, of which the most esteemed are Doshalla, Kussaba, Jamewar and Ulwan. The fabric is also used for gowns and dress purposes (see kasabeh, jamawar). The ornaments of the shawls are denoted by different names, viz: - Pala - The whole of the embroidery at the two ends. Hashia - The border, one at each side. Zanjir (or Chain) - Runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala and confines it. Dhour (or Running Ornament) - Situated to the inside in regard to the Hashia and the Zanjir enveloping the whole field. Kunjbutha - A cornet ornament of clustered flowers. Mitton - The field or ground within the borders. Matton - The decorated part of the field. Butha - Generic term for flowers, especially the cone-like ornaments (see butha) -
2 Cashmere
This fibre is remarkable for its softness and is used for the manufacture of the famous Indian shawls. There are two qualities of cashmere wool, the one consisting of the fine soft down-hairs from 11/4-in. long, and the other of long, coarser beard-hairs from 31/2-in. to 41/2-in. long. The fibre is obtained from the Tibetan goat in Tibet, China and Northern India. Yarns are spun in Yorkshire, U.S.A., Germany and other countries. -
3 Kulkan Shawls
Richly brocaded silk shawls, made in Persia. Similar to the Cashmere shawls. -
4 Ulwan Shawls And Cloth
Plain undyed Cashmere shawls woven on hand looms at Kashmir from pashmina wool. They are very fine in texture, Ulwan forms the centre portion of shawls and is also used for turbans and cummerbands as well as ladies' dresses.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Ulwan Shawls And Cloth
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5 Jamewar Shawls
Cashmere shawls made in stripe designs 11/2 yards X 33/4 yards. They are handsome woven fabrics of rich colourings, and in great variety. The chief varieties are: - (1) Rega-Bootha - Small flowered patterns. (2) Kirkha-Bootha - Large flowered patterns. (3) Jhaldar - Netted patterns. -
6 Kashmir Shawls
These are woven in Kashmir from hand-spun Pashmina wool and on native hand looms in the 2 & 2 twill weave. About 78 ends and 90 picks per inch, 94's warp 2/94's weft. The qualities range from single 94's up to 2/120's yarns and weights from 21/2-oz. to 31/2-oz. per square yard (see Cashmere shawls) -
7 Kussaba Shawls
Cashmere shawls made in sizes from 11/2 yards to 21/2 yards square. They are of two classes, Kaneeroomal or loom made in all colours, and Umlee Roomal needle embroidered. -
8 Paisley Shawls
Cashmere shawls made in Paisley from fine worsted yarns with fringes and designs of Indian pine effects. -
9 Pashmina Shawls
These are Cashmere Shawls. -
10 Pushmina Shawls
These are Cashmere Shawls. -
11 Persian Shawl
A large square of silk or goats' hair fabric, said to have been the original of the Kashmir shawl. The silk shawls are known as Hussein Kuli Kani, probably from the name of the original designer. Shawls of the other kind are made with the soft under-hair of the Persian goat, dyed and spun, and woven in the well-known pine pattern. These shawls are inferior to Kashmir (or Cashmere) shawls, but have a very fine quality of their own. -
12 Angora
ANGORA, or "Mohair"The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village. -
13 Mohair
The hair obtained from the Angora goat, and is grown chiefly in Turkey, South Africa, the U.S.A. and Australia. It is lustrous white, fine, wavy and long. The length varies from 4-in. to 10-in. and spins from 28's to 50's quality. It has no felting properties. That from the U.S.A. is much lower in quality than the others, having about 15 per cent more kempy fibre. Mohair is chiefly used in braids, felt hats, linings, plushes, etc., and the coarser kinds for carpets and low-grade woollen fabrics. ————————ANGORA, or "Mohair"The hair or wool of the goat of that name. More generally known as mohair. The animal originally had its home in Asia Minor. About 1858 it was introduced into Cape Colony, from which country we now get a large supply. The natives of Asia Minor made shawls from the wool, which resembled Cashmere shawls. In colour it is white, average length of hair is 6 to 8 inches, and- has a curly structure. It is a very useful fibre, and largely used by the manufacturers of Astrakhan, wool crepons, plushes and cashmeres; also used in many silk cloths. The French use the fibre in a cloth named "poil de chevre", which has a fine spun silk coloured warp and angora weft. Bradford -imitates this cloth with a fine cotton warp. It has more lustre than wool, but is not so warm. Sir Titus Salt, by introducing the manufacture of goods made from mohair into Saltaire, raised Saltaire into a town from a village. -
14 Paisley Pattern
The Indian pine figure used when weaving the shawls made in Paisley to imitate the more costly Cashmere shawls. The pattern is also used for other fabrics. -
15 Pala
The native term in Kashmir for the embroidered ends of native-made shawls (see Cashmere Shawls) -
16 Pashm
PASHM, PASHMINA, PASHIM, PUSH-MINAThe fine, downy hair obtained from several species of goats in Kashmir and other parts of India. The hair of the goat is cut off once a year with a blunt knife, leaving the soft pashm, or undergrowth of hair behind. The pashm is combed out, pulled apart and all coarser fibres are picked out by hand. The finest quality is yielded by a domesticated goat and from this type the finest Kashmir shawls are made, this variety is called Turfani pashm, or phum, or simply pashm. A lower grade is Phiri. Another variety is obtained from a wild goat and this hair is usually coloured (black or grey). The black is known as Shabri, and the grey as Shah-tush, this type, although genuine pashm, is not so; high in quality as the domestic type. Pashmina is the finest fibre among the wools and hairs, and is the wool used for the finest Cashmere shawls and other Kashmir products. ————————PASHMINA SUBSTITUTES, PASHMThe comparatively scarce Ibex, which yields a white or silver-grey hair, Changtain Pashmina (also called Kuhlchack or Ralchack). In the later years of the 19th century a very soft wool was imported from Southern Persia to Kashmir, under the name of Kirmani Pashm, and used in some of the Kashmir products. Other substitutes came from Afghanistan under the name of Kabul Pashm. The Yak is included by some authorities as a pashm producing animal. -
17 Pashmina
PASHM, PASHMINA, PASHIM, PUSH-MINAThe fine, downy hair obtained from several species of goats in Kashmir and other parts of India. The hair of the goat is cut off once a year with a blunt knife, leaving the soft pashm, or undergrowth of hair behind. The pashm is combed out, pulled apart and all coarser fibres are picked out by hand. The finest quality is yielded by a domesticated goat and from this type the finest Kashmir shawls are made, this variety is called Turfani pashm, or phum, or simply pashm. A lower grade is Phiri. Another variety is obtained from a wild goat and this hair is usually coloured (black or grey). The black is known as Shabri, and the grey as Shah-tush, this type, although genuine pashm, is not so; high in quality as the domestic type. Pashmina is the finest fibre among the wools and hairs, and is the wool used for the finest Cashmere shawls and other Kashmir products. -
18 Pashim
PASHM, PASHMINA, PASHIM, PUSH-MINAThe fine, downy hair obtained from several species of goats in Kashmir and other parts of India. The hair of the goat is cut off once a year with a blunt knife, leaving the soft pashm, or undergrowth of hair behind. The pashm is combed out, pulled apart and all coarser fibres are picked out by hand. The finest quality is yielded by a domesticated goat and from this type the finest Kashmir shawls are made, this variety is called Turfani pashm, or phum, or simply pashm. A lower grade is Phiri. Another variety is obtained from a wild goat and this hair is usually coloured (black or grey). The black is known as Shabri, and the grey as Shah-tush, this type, although genuine pashm, is not so; high in quality as the domestic type. Pashmina is the finest fibre among the wools and hairs, and is the wool used for the finest Cashmere shawls and other Kashmir products. -
19 Push-Mina
PASHM, PASHMINA, PASHIM, PUSH-MINAThe fine, downy hair obtained from several species of goats in Kashmir and other parts of India. The hair of the goat is cut off once a year with a blunt knife, leaving the soft pashm, or undergrowth of hair behind. The pashm is combed out, pulled apart and all coarser fibres are picked out by hand. The finest quality is yielded by a domesticated goat and from this type the finest Kashmir shawls are made, this variety is called Turfani pashm, or phum, or simply pashm. A lower grade is Phiri. Another variety is obtained from a wild goat and this hair is usually coloured (black or grey). The black is known as Shabri, and the grey as Shah-tush, this type, although genuine pashm, is not so; high in quality as the domestic type. Pashmina is the finest fibre among the wools and hairs, and is the wool used for the finest Cashmere shawls and other Kashmir products. -
20 Umlee Roomal
Needle embroidered square Cashmere shawls made in Kashmir of pashmina wool (see Kussaba shawls)
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Cashmere wool — Cashmere wool, usually simply known as cashmere, and sometimes known as Pashmina, is a fiber obtained from the Cashmere goat. The word cashmere derives from an archaic spelling of Kashmir . Cashmere wool is fine in texture, and it is also strong … Wikipedia
cashmere — /kazh mear, kash /, n. 1. the fine, downy wool at the roots of the hair of the Kashmir goat. 2. a garment made of this wool. 3. a yarn made from this wool. 4. a wool or cashmere fabric of plain or twill weave. Also, kashmir. [1815 25; named after … Universalium
Cashmere — Cashmerian, adj. n. /kash mear /, n. Kashmir. * * * Animal hair fibre forming the downy undercoat of the Kashmir goat. The fibre became known for its use in beautiful shawls and other handmade items produced in Kashmir, India. The fibres have… … Universalium
Cashmere fabrics — Cashmere vs. PashminaCashmere and pashmina originate from the same source.Cashmere and pashmina are derived from the pashm goat or Capra Hircus as it is known in Latin.This goat makes its habitat in the high altitudes of the Himalayan mountain… … Wikipedia
Cashmere — Cash mere, n. 1. A rich stuff for shawls, scarfs, etc., originally made in Cashmere from the soft wool found beneath the hair of the goats of Cashmere, Tibet, and the Himalayas. Some cashmere, of fine quality, is richly embroidered for sale to… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Cashmere shawl — Cashmere Cash mere, n. 1. A rich stuff for shawls, scarfs, etc., originally made in Cashmere from the soft wool found beneath the hair of the goats of Cashmere, Tibet, and the Himalayas. Some cashmere, of fine quality, is richly embroidered for… … The Collaborative International Dictionary of English
Cashmere — Cashmere is an animal fiber culled from goats originally of the Kashmir region in India, Afghanistan, Tibet, and Mongolia and the use dates back several thousand years. Processing the hair into fiber is a complex process but the results, when… … Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry
cashmere — 1680s, shawl made of cashmere wool, from the old spelling of KASHMIR (Cf. Kashmir), Himalayan kingdom where wool was obtained from long haired goats. As a name for this kind of woolen fabric, favored for shawls, etc., it is attested from 1822 … Etymology dictionary
Pashmina — refers to a type of fine cashmere wool and the textiles made from it.cite book |last= Franck|first= Robert R.|title=Silk, Mohair, Cashmere and Other Luxury Fibres |url=http://books.google.com/books?id=M om7HI3rwcC pg=PA142 vq=pashmina… … Wikipedia
Textile manufacturing terminology — The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. (Both fibre and fiber are used in this article.)… … Wikipedia
Glossary of textile manufacturing — For terms specifically related to sewing, see Glossary of sewing terms. For terms specifically related to dyeing, see Glossary of dyeing terms. The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first… … Wikipedia
